Regarding a pre-ride check, what should a rider look over before heading out on the road?

Answer: Ideally, you already lubed the chain at the end of the previous ride while it was warm with time to set up so as not to make a mess, but the reality is not many of us actually do that, so here is the list... Lube & Adjust your Drive Chain: always check/adjust chain slack at the tightest point in the chain! One of my favorite lubes is Maxima Chain Wax Tire Pressures: Don’t guess here, if you don’t know, look it up. A good quality pressure gauge is a must as the cheapies can give false readings. Remember tire pressures can have a huge effect on your bike and it's the one thing you can totally do for FREE!

What should a parent ask a potential coach or mentor to ensure their kid is being taught to race safely?

Answer: Parents should ask the coach or mentor how they plan to instruct the rider, both on and off the bike. Are they teaching body position and control before they ever talk about speed? Teaching how to be smooth and how to respect the machine? Look for Coaches with morals and ethics, winning is when you beat everyone fair and square with dedication and heart. They should be flexible because not everyone wants to be world champion, and honest with both rider and parents. In other words, they should have some background in competition, they should have a plan (which may involve nutrition and fitness training) and a clear safety protocol.

If a buyer is looking at a used bike on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist, what are the immediate red flags they need to check before handing over the cash?

Answer: The first big red flag is aftermarket body work or repainted fairings, the majority of the time this points to a bike that has been crashed. Don't get me wrong, a properly repaired bike is perfectly fine, but you will want to dig further to be sure the repairs were indeed done properly. Check list: brake pads, brake fluid condition, tires, fork seals (check for leaks), chain & sprocket condition, steering head bearings, lights, signals, horn, engine oil condition. Does bike start right up and does it idle smooth? General condition: (bars, foot pegs, body, paint) does this match the odometer reading? Also, look at the bolts, are the bolt heads are all rounded off and chewed up? If so this may indicate inexperienced maintenance. If the seller is willing, have the bike inspected by Pacific Power Sportz, we don't charge for this service, it is just our way of looking out for our customers.

How should someone go about deciding what style and engine size of motorcycle is actually right for them?

The number one consideration when buying a first bike is buying the right bike for learning! Look, this won't be your last bike so get a bike that is light, physically fits you, is not intimidating and is designed to do the type of riding that you want to do. If you can't comfortably walk the bike in a driveway, it's too big for you. I f you're a beginner, that bike is just going to scare you and you will never learn how to actually ride if you're terrified of the throttle. Start on something you can handle, learn the fundamentals, then move up when you feel you’ve earned it. " Make sure this decision is yours! Don't be swayed! Don't start off on a 200hp 1000cc machine, you will be a better, safer rider for it."

Why is running factory street tire pressure a mistake on a track day or aggressive canyon ride?

Answer: Because your tires get hot! Factory street tires are generally designed for a wide range of operating conditions on the street; 36 to 42 psi keeps the tire cool and lasting a long time. But when you start pushing hard in the canyons or on a track, you generate higher loads, more heat and that air expands. If you start high, you end up with a rock-hard tire that has zero contact patch. You’ll slide right off the road. You have to drop that pressure so the tire can actually grow into the grip. If you don't know the difference, you shouldn't be pushing that hard. There are street legal “track day” type tires or one can opt for some sticky track only rubber. For the rider that rides street plus occasional track days I recommend finding a good set of used wheels, keep a set of track tires mounted up and simply swap wheels when headed to the track.

When a sportbike feels "mushy" in corners, why is cranking the preload usually the wrong move?

Answer: Because preload isn’t stiffness. It’s ride height. People think they’re making the bike ‘harder’ for the track, but all they’re doing is messing up the geometry and the sag. If the bike is mushy, your spring rate is wrong for your weight or your valving is shot. Cranking a knob isn't a magic fix for a bike that needs a real setup. Sport bikes come with a multitude of suspension adjusters, and most riders don't take advantage of this adjustability. Everything needs to work together here, spring preload, compression & rebound damping front and rear. For the most part the adjustability from the factory will allow some basic set up but for the track you need to take things up a notch. Start with getting the correct Race sag front & rear, approximately 30-35mm front and 25-30mm rear. You may or may not be able to achieve these sag numbers with the stock spring rates and may need to replace springs. You have the correct spring rate when you hit your sag numbers, and the spring is at the recommended preload. Spring free length minus its installed (compressed) height is the preload. Once the bike has the correct springs and sag then it's time to dial in the compression & rebound damping, you want the suspension to absorb bumps and pavement irregularities and return in a controlled manner. Too stiff on compression and the tire will deflect when it hits a bump, too soft, and the fork will blow thru the stroke too easily. Too much rebound and the fork will not return in time for the next bump, too little rebound and the fork extends too quickly causing the bike to run wide at the apex when you begin to open the throttle.

What are the top things someone needs to be aware of if they are using a pressure washer to clean their bike?

Answer: A pressure washer is a tool, not a toy. The name of it says it all "pressure". If you blast water directly into your wheel bearings, your swingarm pivots, or your electrical connectors, you’re just forcing water past the seals. It’s going to sit in there and rot the bike from the inside out. We recommend using Simple Green and a toothbrush for wheels, calipers, frame and suspension. Use car wash soap for body work/paint then rinse with a hose sprayer. If you must use a pressure washer, stay back 4 or 5 feet and never aim at anything that moves or has wires coming out of it. Simple as that.

FAQs Archive

Regarding a pre-ride check, what should a rider look over before heading out on the road?
Answer: Ideally, you already lubed the chain at the end of the previous ride while it was warm with time [...]
What should a parent ask a potential coach or mentor to ensure their kid is being taught to race safely?
Answer: Parents should ask the coach or mentor how they plan to instruct the rider, both on and off the [...]
If a buyer is looking at a used bike on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist, what are the immediate red flags they need to check before handing over the cash?
Answer: The first big red flag is aftermarket body work or repainted fairings, the majority of the time this points to [...]
How should someone go about deciding what style and engine size of motorcycle is actually right for them?
The number one consideration when buying a first bike is buying the right bike for learning! Look, this won't be [...]
Why is running factory street tire pressure a mistake on a track day or aggressive canyon ride?
Answer: Because your tires get hot! Factory street tires are generally designed for a wide range of operating conditions on [...]
When a sportbike feels “mushy” in corners, why is cranking the preload usually the wrong move?
Answer: Because preload isn’t stiffness. It’s ride height. People think they’re making the bike ‘harder’ for the track, but all [...]
What are the top things someone needs to be aware of if they are using a pressure washer to clean their bike?
Answer: A pressure washer is a tool, not a toy. The name of it says it all "pressure". If you [...]

Regarding a pre-ride check, what should a rider look over before heading out on the road?

What should a parent ask a potential coach or mentor to ensure their kid is being taught to race safely?

If a buyer is looking at a used bike on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist, what are the immediate red flags they need to check before handing over the cash?

How should someone go about deciding what style and engine size of motorcycle is actually right for them?

Why is running factory street tire pressure a mistake on a track day or aggressive canyon ride?

When a sportbike feels “mushy” in corners, why is cranking the preload usually the wrong move?

What are the top things someone needs to be aware of if they are using a pressure washer to clean their bike?

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